published 12/11/2013 at 18:56 by Ellie Pithers
On the eve of Dior's exhibition in Paris celebrating the brand's shape-shifting perfume Miss Dior, we delve into the life of Catherine Dior, the face behind the fragrance
Catherine Dior in the Thirties; René Gruau advertisement for Miss Dior in 1949; Miss Dior bottle in 1949 Photo: Collection Dior-Charbonneries, Christian Dior Parfums
It's easy to imagine Mademoiselle Catherine Dior as a flighty, fragrant kind of lady. The sister of Christian, she was the face behind Miss Dior, Dior's 1947 perfume, launched in conjunction with
his revolutionary New Look. Legend has it that Catherine burst in unexpectedly when her brother was brainstorming names with his leonine muse Mitzah Bricard in 30 Avenue Montaigne. "Ah, here's
Miss Dior!" Bricard, who had an English mother, said. "Miss Dior: now there's a name for my perfume!" Christian
replied.
So far, so dreamy (not to mention sound bitey). But Miss Dior wasn't all flounce - she was a brave, bright woman with more than just a perfume to her name. So kudos where kudos is due: here's
five things you need to know about Catherine Dior.
1. She was a member of the French Resistance
Or the Polish intelligence unit based in France, to be more precise. In November 1941 Catherine was out shopping for a radio when she met Hervé des Charbonneries, a founding Resistance member.
She fell in love at first sight, and quickly became one of more than 2,000 agents in the 'Massif Central' unit, focussed on gathering information about German movements and weaponry. In July 1944
she was arrested, tortured, deported on one of the last prison trains from Paris and imprisoned at the Ravensbrück women's concentration camp. Ironically, her brother was concurrently designing
outfits for the Nazi officers' wives with the couturier Lucien Lelong of Balmain - a matter in which he had no choice. Catherine survived and was liberated in 1945, returning to Paris utterly
emaciated. Two years later her brother would name his first perfume after her.
2. She was named a chevalière of the Légion d'Honneur
You'll be pleased to hear such heroism did not go unsung. Catherine was decorated with a rack of medals: she was awarded a rare Croix de Guerre (normally this was reserved for regular armed
forces); the Combatant Volunteer Cross of the Resistance; the Combatant Cross; the King's Medal for Courage in the Cause of Freedom (courtesy of Britain); and was named a chevalière of the Légion
d'Honneur.
3. Her first name was really Ginette
But she switched it to Catherine. Christian's favourite day, incidentally, was St Catherine's Day, when he
would visit every workroom in 30 Avenue Montaigne and give a speech "in which I express my sincere and tender affection for all those who have joined their efforts to mine". Saint Catherine is
the patron saint of students, philosophers, seamstresses, and all unmarried girls twenty-five and over (ouch), and on November 25 it's customary to wear fancy dress. Accordingly, Team Telegraph
will be rocking up at work on Monday 25 in head to toe Dior.
4. She gave Christian his nickname Tian
And it stuck for life.
5. She loved flowers
After the war, Catherine became a mandataire en fleurs coupées, which translates as a 'representative in cut flowers'. This was a go-between role enabling her to trade southern-grown flowers in
France and its colonies. For the next twelve years she and Hervé endured 4am starts at the Halles market in Paris, setting up deliveries of fresh flowers all over the world - including her
brother's favourite flower, lily of the valley. She was still gardening at the age of 75, gathering roses and jasmine at her home in Callian.
'Esprit Dior: Miss Dior' is at Le Grand Palais, Paris from 13-25 November. Entrance is free.